Yamaha G22 Light Kit Installation

Tools & Equipment:

Scissors (Something to cut-out the paper stencils)
Tape, Clear & Electrical
Tape Measure or Ruler
Marker, Dry Erase
Drill Motor & Drill Bits
Jig Saw
PVC Blades for Jig Saw
Weather Strips (attached to foot of jig saw)
3” Hole Saw
Dremel Tool
Edge Sanding attachments for Dremel Tool
Pop Rivet Gun
Mini Impact Driver
Cable (Zip) Ties
Battery Post Cleaning Tool or Wire Brush
Wire Cutters
Wire Stripper
Wire Crimping Tool

Personal Safety Equipment

Work Gloves,
Exam Gloves (Allergy Free),
Safety Glasses

Parts (Not included in the light kit)

Self-Tapping Screw, Hex Head, sloted, Washer type for automotive use
Quick-Connect Top-Post Battery Terminal
Wire Terminals, for the Quick-Connect Terminal
In-Line Wire Connectors, crimp style

Procedures:

Safety

Make the cart as safe as possible.
Chock the rear wheels and apply the parking brake.
Remove the key from the ignition.
Disconnect both of the battery cables.
Inspect the battery and battery cables. Clean or replace as needed.
Review the entire installation process and assemble all necessary safety equipment, tools and parts needed.

Cut the holes for the lights and the light switch

Cut out the stencils for both front and rear lights.
Tape the stencils onto the cart. Take your time with this step. Measure reference distances with a tape measure or ruler.
Walk away from the cart and look at the “Whole Picture”.
Once you’re satisfied with the placement of the stencils, use the dry erase marker and trace around the inside edge of the stencil.
Carefully remove the stencils, trying not to tear them.
Step away from the cart and take another look at the “Whole Picture”.
If needed, wipe off the dry erase marker and start again.
It’s better to measure two or three times before drilling any holes.
Inspect the area behind your marks. Ensure there is nothing that will get in the way of the drill bit or the jig saw blade.
Once you’re convinced the marks are in the right place and there is nothing in the way of the drill bits or jig saw blades, drill pilot holes in the corners of the marks. It’s OK to go to the outside edge of the marks, that represents the inside edge of the stencil. Make the pilot holes large enough to get your jig saw blade into, with a little extra room to turn the blade as you get to the corner of your cut.
Place a blade, suitable for cutting PVC Pipe, into the jig saw and set the speed of the saw to cut PVC.
Slowly, and staying to the outside edge of your lines, cut between your pilot holes.
Save the “scrap” sections you just removed. These make great “test pieces” when you’re selecting drill bits for other things, like the light switch.
Place the lights into the holes and hold them in place.
“Test Fit” the lights. Make any needed “adjustments” to the holes with a jig saw or a Dremel Tool. Take off a little bit at a time and keep checking the fit of the lights.
Remove the light switch from the wiring harness.
Determine where you want the light switch to be installed.
Ensure there is enough clearance for the switch and that nothing is in the way for drilling the hole to install the switch.
Drill a hole for the light switch and install the switch.

Wiring

Examine the pre-assembled wiring harness. All the “looms” originate from the Relay. Note the numbers on the quick connectors at the end of some of the looms. These match the numbers of the quick connectors on the lights and the light switch. The loom for the battery connection only has the in-line fuse and wire connectors.
Determine where you want to install the Relay.
We like using a frame member close to the battery.
Mark the spot where you want to install the Relay and drill a hole for the self-tapping screw. A quick tip for the proper size drill is to hold the self-tapping screw and a drill bit alongside each other and hold them up to a light. You should see light through the threads and the drill bit should cover the “minor diameter or root diameter”, the imaginary shaft of the bolt that just touches the base of the treads.
We like using Hex Washer, Slotted, Self-Tapping screws suitable for the automotive industry. This allows us to use an impact driver to install the screw into the square tubing of the frame and the screws are coated to inhibit rusting.
Once the relay is installed, thread the looms of wire for all the lights and the switch down, under the cart. Leave the loom for the battery connection close to the battery.
Follow the existing wiring and thread the looms alongside the existing wiring.
Take advantage of any metal tabs that hold the existing wiring into place.
Use cable ties to secure the wiring to the cart.
Thread the wires to the light switch up through the “firewall” and to the switch.
Re-connect the wires to the switch.
Thread the wires to the lights and leave enough wire to make the final connections.
Coil the remainder of the looms and use cable ties to secure the wire to the cart.
An optional wiring method would be to cut and splice the wires to length or to use a tool to remove the pins from the quick connectors, cut the wires to length and install new pins into the quick connector.
If you haven’t already, now is a good time to examine and clean your battery and battery cables. Examination gloves work well to protect you from any battery acid.
Determine how you want to run the wiring for the connection to the battery.
Clean the posts and cable ends with a wire battery post cleaning tool or wire brush.
Install the Quick-Connect Top-Post Battery Terminals over the battery posts with the wire connections facing toward each other. This helps protect the final wire connections from touching the frame.
Re-install the battery cables.
Remove the loom and any electrical tape from the wires being connected to the battery. You should now have two wires coming from the relay that we will have to work on before being connected to the battery.
The Red wire will have a fuse attached to it. This wire will be connected to the Positive (+) side of the battery. The Black wire will be connected to the Negative (-) side of the battery.
Cut off the factory installed wire connector from the end of the fuse wire.
Strip the wire and crimp on the new wire connector that fits on the Quick-Connect Top-Post Battery Terminal.
Working your way from the battery to the relay, determine the length of the Red wire.
Leaving enough wire to work with, cut out the excess section from the Red wire.
Strip the ends of the Red wires and crimp on an in-line wire connector.
If you purchased a heat shrink style of connector, go ahead and shrink the connector. If not, use electrical tape to cover the connector.
Perform a similar “surgery” to the black wire.
Cut the loom to a suitable size and re-install the loom.
Use cable ties to secure the wire loom into place.

Final installation

With the aid of a helper, place a light into position. Check the final fit and when ready, drill a hole for the pop rivet. Note the light bezel has dimples to help determine rivet placement.
Place a rivet into the hole to help hold the light into place. Don’t “Pop” the rivet yet.
Drill holes and set the remainder of the lights and rivets into place.
Once all the rivets are placed, step away from the cart and take a final look before “Popping” the rivets.
If things are a little off center or not exactly to your liking, now is the time to make slight changes.
If needed, move the light into its final position and re-drill the holes. A small washer installed on the back of the rivet will help hold the rivet into any oversized hole that had to be made.
Now, if everything worked the first time (congratulations) and you’re happy with the way things look, “Pop” all the rivets.
Connect all the lights to their quick connectors.
Make the final connections to the battery wires… and VOILA!
You should be able to “Blind Your Neighbors”.